Thursday, October 28, 2010

Who made the salad?

Vegetables are fresh, inexpensive, and readily available in Peru. The varieties are plentiful and varied. Daily you can go out and get any type of seasonal vegetable you want: potatoes (yellow, white, or sweet), onions, corn (yellow or purple) garlic, lettuce (organic and iceberg), carrots, tomatoes, casaba by the slice, herbs, cilantro, peppers, a cornucopia of vegetables.

The other day I wanted to make a salad. After eating too much bread I decided salad was a better alternative. I went 2 blocks from my home to Calle Jose Gonzalez between Orcharan and Colon. There, six days a week, Monday through Saturday, you can find Carlos Alberto Lopez Zamora.

Carlos began selling vegetables with his father 45 years ago. His father, now 83, began selling vegetables when he was 24. At 52, Carlos is a fixture in Miraflores for his customers that depend on him daily and weekly: buying the fresh items as needed. He has operated his own stand for 26 years.

Carlos is married, over 30 years, with four children: two boys and two girls ages 28 to 15. He lives in Surco. Working his push cart six days a week, through rain, cold, or illness, he has provided for the family and cared for his customers.

While I was talking with him today at least 10 customers came by for tomatoes, lettuce, potatoes, or beans. He weighs the produce and bags it: most being sold by the kilo or per piece. I was amazed how many came and said "hola Carlos" before asking about what was available.One man picked his items and went back to his vehicle to leave. Carlos and I had been talking. As not to interrupt, the customer just looked up and said, "Sol ochenta" (S/.1.80), the amount of his purchase and drove off. Carlos said he would pay tomorrow.

Carlos' business is quite simple: a push cart, a scale, pad of paper to write the amounts down, a city license, and a broom to keep the street clean. He parks the cart only six blocks away from where he is seen everyday. His work however is not simple. Once, about 20 years ago, he was robbed of everything: money, cart, and inventory.

He only sleeps two to three hours a day. He buys his wares daily. For onions and potatoes he must go buy them at 10:00 PM. The rest of the vegetables he buys at 3:30 in the morning. He takes a cab to get the goods. Each day around 7:00 or 8:00 in the morning he is back at the push cart and open until 3:00. Sunday's are for the family.

The cart has provided for his family all these years with small sales each day. When I went to get my ingredients for my salad that day I only spent S/.3.80, or about $1.36. I got wonderful organic lettuce, cilantro, a tomato, some limes, carrot, and choclo: a white large kernel sweet corn you blanch for a few seconds and add to the salad. Carlos cut the corn off the ear for me there while I waited.

When you see him he may be clean shaved or scruffy faced, but he always is upbeat and happy to see you. I remember one day asking him what lettuce was best to make a salad. He quickly quipped with a grin, "Americana" (iceberg). I wasn't sure if he was teasing me re not, as he has a sense of humor.

When you come to Peru you can get great vegetables almost everywhere. The supermarkets, the mercados, even the bodegas (markets and small grocery stores) have them. Some are fresher than others depending on the day. The supermarkets tend to be more expensive, but have a wider variety. If you want not only produce, but an experience, come to Jose Gonzalez between Ocharan and Colon. There you will see Carlos and his offerings: fresh vegetables with a sense of peace. A joyful experience.

3 comments:

  1. Will you ever get over the fact that a healthy bowl of salad, or of steamed mixed vegetables, in Peru costs about a dollar while unhealthy junk food costs at least 10 times that? A system they should introduce to the "first world", no?

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  2. Mark: Came across you on ExpatPeru and have been enjoying reading your blog. Excellent articles and fotos.

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